On the Catwalk
ELIE SAAB Spring-Summer 2014
For Spring-Summer 2014, ELIE SAAB takes inspiration from nature. Spring is a time of renewal, of youth, of vibrant new life. In the collection, this is epitomised by blossoming of a rose garden, flushed with colour and delicate texture.
Colours are taken from blooms: camellia white, eglantine rose, bougainvillea and verdant green herbe de tendresse. They are combined with inky black, the garden captured at midnight.
As the garden grows, the collection develops. Knits in honeycomb trellis or precise pleats are combined with lace, while zips are exposed, lending an edge to refined evening looks. Fragile shades are suffused with exotic hothouse hues, the garden darkening as dusk falls. Evening brings seduction. Black chiaroscuro lace clambers across the body, constellations of macro cabochon beading dazzles on evening dresses, matched with the sparkling gemstones on precious minaudière clutches.
Fabrics are ethereal, light as petals. Spiderwebs of Chantilly lace grow from seams or ramble along evening dresses, sometimes gossamer-fine canvasses for embroidery. A pattern devised from lace forms the background for the collection’s print of painterly roses in full flower.
Needlepoint lace is used to imitate the wild foliage of a garden, contained by graphic bands of fabric. Seams are outlined with ribbons of fabric, echoed in the streamlined straps of high shoes.
ELIE SAAB transforms his gowns into a garden of exquisite and unique blooms, a magical fusion of woman and nature.
written by Louise Kahrmann
For Omar Mansoor’s dramatic Spring/Summer 2014 collection, inspiration came from the opera, ‘Madama Butterfly’. This was a stunning collection and highlights included:
A blue sophisticated peplum with a diamonte waist and a short shiny blue lace and black dress. Omar continued the blue theme, presenting a thigh-slashed evening dress, which was elegant in its clean cut figure hugging lines.
Black dresses featured in the form of a body–con dress adorned with a diamonte finish and a satin dress with sequin sleeves. A demure black dress with a gold decorated band at the waist complemented a simplistic short at the front and long at the back black dress. Both of these exquisite designs would be ideal for day or evening wear. Another beautiful design was a black sheer flowing chiffon dress with transparent sleeves.
The show finished with a variation on Verdi’s Operatic theme, a long black embroidered satin and lace floor length gown, ending the show with visions of a geisha’s attire.
written by Emily Mould and photography by Shahid Malik & Balazs Romsics
John Richmond menswear A/W 13/14 in Milan
John Richmond wowed Milan Men’s Fashion Week with his collection of clean lines and geometric silhouettes
Giorgio Armani Autumn 2011 Campaign: Sasha Pivovarova by Mert & Marcus
First look at Giorgio Armani’s Autumn 2011 campaign reveals a platinum blonde Sasha Pivovarova decked out in ultra-glam accessories. The Autumn advertisements will appear in glossies all over the globe starting with the September issues. Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott are the geniuses behind photography.
Giorgio Armani pairs the upscale and incredibly sophisticated pieces from his autumn 2011 women’s-wear collection to bring the Autumn 2011 AD campaign. The images capture the stunning Russian model with red-hot lips, great outerwear made from fabrics like fur and tweed, along with day wear featuring impeccable tailoring. Model Sasha Pivovarova looked extremely elegant, refined and stylish with her Russian beauty; she expresses a womanly elegance and sophistication and sports impeccable tailoring and feminine drama in sharp silhouettes from the label’s autumn collection.
Sasha dons the luxurious designs created by Giorgio Armani for his collection, in soft pinks, black, pewter or brown, impeccable tailoring, well-defined shapes, opulent embroidery and innovative textures. The layering, and classiness of the winter clothing within the silhouettes, the fur, and a hint of leopard print, allow the detailed accessories to remain elegant and simple. Backed by subtle light and possessing a sultry spirit, the campaign tops the list this season, and as we bring in the autumn season, the great range of clothes and accessories shown here should be on every woman’s want.
The juxtaposition in the photograph between the softness of the texture and colour of the clothing and the harshness of Pivovarova’s hair, makeup and facial expression is characteristic of the fashion house’s approach to feminine dressing. The Giorgio Armani Autumn 2011 campaign is one to look forward to when flipping through magazines this Autumn.
Photo’s: Courtesy of Armani
Earth, Wind & Fire: Campaign to Catwalk
Roberto Cavalli Fall/ Winter 2011/ 2012 AD Campaign/Catwalk
Natasha Poly, Mariacarla Boscono and Karen Elson play autumn enchantresses for Roberto Cavalli’s fall 2011 campaign lensed by Mert and Marcus. It was as mind blowing as the collection itself, the designs and the styles were too good, are like fiery fairies – bright, beautiful and as if united with one and very important goal.
Long flowing leopard-printed gowns, feminine floral dresses teamed up with luxurious fur accessories, and clinging sexy ensembles look fabulous. The women swear campaign shoot showcasing the collections in dark, gothic tinged vibe in a beautiful, natural setting, are submerged into an overtly sexual, eerie, passionate yet whimsical world, for the new the rock flowing transparent layers of signature Cavalli print that have been given a new lease of life for A/W 2011/12
One the other side of the Autumn/Winter Campaign, Roberto Cavalli is taking to the jungle! The campaign stars top supermodels and dynamic duo Aymeline Valade and Olga Sherer who are styled head to toe in fierce animal prints for the Autumn/Winter catalogue. Bold, striking and nothing short of jaw-dropping, topped off with accessories including bohemian scarves, fringe embellished bags and slick eyewear, Aymeline and Olga look ready for the colder months in style the girls bring the already lively campaign to new heights with figure shaping silhouettes, tailored jackets and wild fur accents and accessories straight off the runway that spice up the sizzling selections.
The implications that designer collections may be reserved for the ultra-rich and ultra-chic, but the styles and patterns of these designers set the pace for up and coming fashions, inspiring more accessible designers and style-savvy consumers to push the boundaries of style. Never one to shy away from bold statements, Cavalli highly emotion-triggering campaign features long flowing leopard-printed gowns, floral dresses and luxurious accessories.
VAMP IT UP
VAMP UP THE FETISH FASHION 2011/12
The second trend that seems to have exploded, especially in Paris & London, is this obsessive combination of fashion and fetishism. which complimented the latex usage and uniform hats brilliantly, taking the fetish element to another level. Lady Gaga walked for Thierry Mugler in his extremely avant-garde, tastefully fetish creations.
Hints of leather, patent leather, latex, straps and other fetish motifs could be seen at Givenchy, Viktor & Rolf, & Jean-Paul Gaultier! It’s Fetish. When it comes to 2011/2012 fetish, think more Park Avenue Princess than Soho Siren as leather, rubber and Perspex become your new best friends. Of course one of the things that excites us so much about this trend is the unique, off-the-beaten-track and personal nature of it which of course is what Boticca is all about and this is one of the easiest ways this winter to mark your individuality and stand out for your unique and personal fashion interpretation.
From necklaces and bracelets to skirts and dresses, come winter, the world will be awash with fetish inspired delights. Of course fetish is nothing new, but the popularity of its latest re-vamp has skyrocketed since the endorsement of Lady Gaga, Rihanna and of course recent CFDA winner Marc Jacobs, whose entire runways were swathed in fashionista fetish get-up. Risqué cuts, leather straps and skyscraper heels, this could only mean one thing, fetish fashion.
When the likes of Lady Gaga and Kate Moss are leaving fashion shows draped in sexy black leather, balancing on what can only be described as boots best used for bondage, it’s safe to say S&M is set to become more than just a chart topping single this autumn/winter. Look to Thierry Mugler and Giles to see fetish fashion in its true form. The most impressive of all the Autumn/Winter 2011 fashion show products.
Louis Vuitton hosted their showing. Fashion has been taking steps to the uber sexy realms of fetishism and vampires for Autumn/Winter 2011-12 Inspired by the controversial 1974 classic film The Night Porter, a film which delves into the world of fetish and sadomasochism and the more recent vampire phenomenon that has been sweeping the globe since the Twilight films and hit American TV show True Blood.
STREETWEAR – Relaxed tailoring
Men’s relaxed tailoring A/W 11/12
The relaxed cuts of past years are distinctly different from the relaxed tailoring of this season. We see it amongst spring 2012′s fashions it’s highly likely that we’ll also see this interpretation of men’s fashion feature amongst throughout all of 2012. The collections from some of the top designers Vivienne Westwood, Raf Simmons, Cornejo,and Michael Kors are challenging, visionary and are beautifully crafted and designed to look and be attainable. With celebrated medley of muted colours and winter friendly textures, including wool and tweed. Navy, camel and gray were formalised on a selection of deconstructed coats and blazers, as sporty styling and slouchy silhouettes were mixed with relaxed tailoring to define a carefully balanced collection allows the fashion to take singular items and personalise them into individual styles.
If relaxed and oversized shoulders are the hallmark of the emerging relaxed tailoring trend, then loose cut trousers follow a close second. At the outset they may feel like an easy way to interpret the trend, but don’t be deceived: they’re the element that is easiest to get wrong. After all, this trend may lack formality but it certainly isn’t so casual that it is street wear. Pairing heavy layers for 2011/12 and wearing chunky-knit sweater under stylish coats; trousers that are slightly boot cut; and playing with colour and pattern gives the man the advantage of this fit.
Tailoring is the key to the whole look. Burberry has come across with a relaxed attitude to this autumns resort. One of the most dominant uses is in the seamless shoulder application because it can stand out or blend in and is quite easy to pull off. This relaxed tailoring is also being used in outerwear with duffle and trench coats as The loose fit look of a tailored jacket is certainly not for everyone and one needs a great deal of confidence to pull it off. Casually wearing the relaxed tailoring comes with a warning relaxed tailoring does not equal baggy.
Isola Marras…with a Russian air a la Dostoievski
At first sight, these photos look as if they were taken on the backstage. In the same time, the decor looks too organized for a backstage. Marras is always one step ahead. Once with this collection, he decided to ‘delete’ the borders between stage and backstage. As a result, he created a particular place, where journalists could interact directly with models and the designer itself. In this way, the viewer became an essential part of the catwalk. Marras emphasized that he- the viewer – is the element without which the catwalk would not take place.
The collection itself seemed to have been inspired from Dostoievski’s books: skeleton-like trees, wooden houses, head kerchiefs, long skirts, grey and brown shadows, harmony and coldness.
Author: Ruxanda Renita
Photography: Alexandra Serediuc
Antonio Marras- “Mia Mamma e la piu bella del mondo”
Marras is always attentive to details. This time, even the invitation suprised the “intoxicated perfume of his mother”: – a black and white photography with red flowered embroidery. (A. Marras) The stage, as well as the backstage explosed in fragmented memories of his mother: an orphan deprived of love but always willing to love, red lips, big eyes, black dress, crocodile handbag, fragile but strong, feminine but cold…Acording to Marras, his mother embodies this season’s woman.
The collection was retro, emotional collage of memories: embroderies, chiffon, satin, crepe, velvet, Chantilly lace. Marras admits that he has followed his mother in her way of transfigurating the men’s jackets into women’s ones. Alike her, he has transformed his mother’s jackets into fashionable clothes.
The closing of the show was very subtle and emotional. The drapery which represented his mother ‘s photo- explosed into a suite of models wearing his mother’s black dress.
If you want to be fashionable this season, try your best to be Marras’ mother: Nanarita!
Author: Ruxanda Renita
Photography: Alexandra Serediuc
N21 – Refinement and Poetry
Alessandro Dell’Acqua collection teaches the new generation to do not ignore the past. Sometimes it is worth looking your grandmother’s wardrobe than having an exhausting shopping tour.
His collection surprises the original French glamour, known for its explosion of lace and beige nuances. In the same time, he ‘coquetes’ with futurism, bringing a minimalist air in terms of design. His advice would be: “Take your grandfather’s XXL sweater and wear it with a pair of beige lace trousers.” Not the shape of your body, but rather the big size of the sweater emphasizes the ultimate delicacy of this season’s style.
Author: Ruxanda Renita
Photography: Alexandra Serediuc
Burberry Prorsum – The show that Defined London Fashion Week
It was undoubtedly the show of London Fashion Week and Christopher Bailey once again captured centre stage in a collection that redefined British Cool before the most star-studded front row seen in London for a long time.
The show featured technical innovations such as broadcasting the show live onto the screens of Piccadilly Circus to capture the spirit of invention showing why Burberry is an iconic British brand with an enduring global allure.
Samantha Cameron was looking radiant as she posed for photographers alongside Anna Wintour in her new role as Ambassador to the British Fashion Council.
Fashion Insider’s Stacie Fleming came over from Paris to attend the show. From the comfort of the newly opened W Hotel she had one sentence to summarise the show.
‘I was left mesmorized’
By: Rupert Smith & Stacie Fleming
John Richmond Woman- a Virgin on the edge of Hollywood’s Decadence
A black and shiny stage, rock remix of Kylie Minongue, eccentric auditory waiting. This is John Richmond’s scenery.
Who is John Richmond’s muse? The designer said he ‘didn’t have a particular person, but rather a mixture of conceptions which helped in building the Richmond Woman.’ She wears fur coats, and leather jackets with diamonds like a Hollywood Diva. Therefore, she is powerful. She wears sun glasses à la Charleque Holmes. Therefore, she is enigmatic. She wears cyclamen, jumbo green dresses like a rock star. Therefore, she is unique. She wears black leather and lace like a virgin widow. Therefore, she is Seductive. She is the successful modern woman, but who succeeded to impose her femininity.
Richmond’s design amazes the onlooker through the antagonistic collage of the two eras: Monroe and Lady Gaga. Simultaneously, he doesn’t forget about the poetical sensibility of the woman’s soul.
Who grasps better than Richmond- the woman’s complexity?
Author: Ruxanda Renita Photography: Alexandra Serediuc
The Classical Beauty of Daks
“I like classical beauty” divulges Filippo Scuffi when interviewed minutes after his newest collection, the Autumn / Winter 2011 for the design house Daks, had been shown at London Fashion week on 18th February. Indeed, his pieces exude elegance and femininity, and manage to delightfully combine the old-fashioned and quaint with the casual and vibrant. To a palette of greys, nudes and browns he adds eye catching splashes of orange, green and blue; with the cosy, knitted jumpers he throws in velvety and luxurious silky dresses; to the strong cuts of tailored trousers, uniform-like, pleated skirts and smart, collared shirts he combines floaty ponchos and kooky sweater patterns. The pieces de resistances are undoubtedly the quilted skirts at the end, worn with a tight waistline and patent leather shoes, they are reminiscent of both the feeling of being enveloped comfortably in a duvet, and also that of marching in chic style to a soiree. Scuffi maintains the aesthetics of his previous Autumn / Winter collection, with similar uses of leather and tartan, comfort and sophistication, yet he succeeds in creating something new and fresh, still in keeping with his overall vision.
The Whiff of Bella Italia, emanated by his Milanese roots, conjures up romantic strolls in old-world, picture-postcard villages, and is playfully coupled with the brand’s British heritage, with its earthy colours and sharp cuts. The overall image depicted is that of charm, evoking both picturesque walks in the countryside and forceful strides to the office.
It was certainly worth the early wake-up call and the rushing through a rainy London.
Interview and Catwalk: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EIHPn3rjDw&feature=player_embedded
by Adriana Timco
London Fashion Week February 2011
ISSA London builds on the Middleton Mystique
Photo courtesy of Maja MA
Photo courtesy of Maja MA
Paul Costelloe – London Fashion Week Feb 11
Paul Costelloe is one of the first shows of every season and what a brilliant way to kick off! Models strutted their stuff in matching, vibrant red, crimped, bob wigs; creating a tone of harmony over the show. Similar to many Autumn/Winter collections the pieces focused on texture. Costelloe’s palette ranged from autumnal shades of brown and orange, to brighter hues of yellow, green and bold pink. Aspects of patchwork rotated around central compositions, with tweed and tartan designs being the primary pattern form. Structure was evident in pleated skirts and cropped square-style jackets. Favourite details were ribbon-tie waists and velvet, adding a little bit of girly glamour to the collection; no doubt to be worn at Christmas time. Key skirt form was the ‘mini’, although a floatier version than seen before and metallic returned once again for the season in a more muted style. Evidently for the winter season coats and tights played a key part of the show, whilst more minor details came in flower prints and hoods on coats. Collars played an integral role, both in the womenswear and in the few men’s jackets that were seen; obviously a detail to consider. An exciting range from Costello, well-rounded, coordinated with a look that provided inspiration and a lot of variety whilst all pulling together beautifully.
Paul Costelloe is available from John Lewis Stores.
By Camilla Sampson
Paris Haute Couture Week January 2011
Elie Saab, loved by young Hollywood starlets, such as Kristen Stewart and Dakota Fanning, created a show reminiscent of a romantic fairytale. The fluidity of his dresses inspired a breathtakingly ethereal setting. The goddess-like models floated down the runway adorned in delicate lace, billowy chiffon and elegant embroidery.
The Spring palette, like that of soft rose petals, captured the sheer elegance and craftsmanship of each piece. In contrast, the final few dresses were dramatic black gowns evoking a sophisticated glamour. The grand finale showcased a magnificently embroidered mother of pearl wedding dress that encapsulated a regal demeanor.
Author Stacie Fleming
Sculpted gowns, stunning drapery and an architectural modernity cemented Stephane Rolland’s dynamic collection. The workmanship of these pieces suited the grandeur of their setting.
The Spring palette drew from the earth. The tones were smoldering in igneous oranges that cooled to nude and white shades accented with gold. Plunging necklines and structured silhouettes graced the runway accentuating the femininity of each piece.
Rolland out did himself! He put on an extravagant, captivating and elegant show that left the audience wanting more.
Author Stacie Fleming